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When compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. However, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.